Thursday, November 27, 2014

Tuesday, Nov. 25 - touring Lyon with the Denuzieres!


It was obvious that Bernard and Dominique had carefully and thoughtfully planned for our visit. They had a lengthy agenda in mind for both of our days together in order to experience their area of France. Monday was devoted to "family" things and today was going to be a Lyon "adventure", but not until we had a "typical" (not really) French breakfast of baguette, croissant, brioche (all of which Bernard had bought fresh and warm at the bakery that morning), jus d'orange and confiture (a homemade apricot jam, another of Dominique's creations.)

Off to Lyon to see the sights: first we visited the Basilica Fourviere on the hill overlooking Vieux (old) Lyon. A stunning church, but unfortunately we're well into November, so the view from the hill was obscured by the brouillard (fog)--this is a French word that we came to know very well.

We then took the funicular down to tour Lyon--the old section and the newer part of the city.
There are old buildings, winding passageways, and stone structures that have been updated with stucco to preserve them:





After lunch at a restaurant in the old section called Daniel and Denise a typical 'bouchon' restaurant in Lyon. Its chef, Joseph Viola, was once ranked as one of the best in France, recognized by the red, white, and blue stripe around his uniform collar.  During lunch we could see why. Lunch was delicious and enjoyable after walking around in the brouillard for most of the morning. I'm sure that without the fog, Lyon is a very beautiful city since the Rhone and the Soane both flow through the city.
 
Mid-November is known throughout the world as the release date for Beaujolais Nouveau. Bernard confirmed that even though this 'new' wine is produced in his "back yard", it is not a wine that is widely enjoyed by him and many other Frenchmen. Lloyd agreed--another of the many similarities we discovered between the two cousins. (Very eerie how many there were!) But touring the Beaujolais area and the many medieval villages were on the "agenda", so after lunch, in spite of the incoming fog--off we went.

Most of the villages had been built of a local yellow stone known as Pierre Doree (golden stone--with an accent over the 'e') which is probably beautiful on a sunny day.
We saw many tiny wine producers--we assume most sell locally only or to larger producers, but it was obvious that none were open for tastings. So even though it was close to cocktail hour (for us), we drove back into Lyon in rush hour for one more event still on the "agenda"--a visit to the city Les Halles, their enormous food market so that Dominique could buy some fresh foie gras (duck, not goose), since we told her that is a delicacy that is not available in Easton!



It was fascinating--the butchers were hard at work, but happy to stop to explain their specialties. Dominique also thought we should buy some "Saucisson Lyonnaise" to take in our bags back to Paris as a souvenir--quite a sense of humor, she has.

The sausages were hung by the chimney with care....oops, I guess that is confusing two different holidays!

Back to Charbonnieres for a "lighter" dinner of foie gras on toast, quenelles in lobster sauce, and salad in light viniagrette made by Bernard (another similarity between him and Lloyd). We "had" to have dessert--ice cream with home cooked cherries from a tree in their front yard. How will ever match this itinerary in Easton!?

Another wonderful day......but we are looking forward to walking off some off this Lyonnaise food when we get to Paris tomorrow.   


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